I have a friend who is an extraordinary cook. He says that ‘subtle’ and ‘delicate’ are two adjectives he hopes never describe his food. He’s an actor/comedian and everything about him is gutsy and over-the-top, so every dish he makes explodes with flavor.
But sometimes subtle and delicate are a good thing. Although I wouldn’t describe this soup as either, it is definitely on the light side for a chowder, more ethereal and silky than most. I love it simply because of its subtly. It doesn’t shout corn or shrimp, it simply whispers them. Although you can discern a touch of tomato and red pepper, you barely know they are there. Marinating the shrimp in lime juice and garlic mellows its flavor considerably.
The texture is also light. It’s creamy without any cream, which is unique for a chowder. An unripe green plantain gives it body and adds to its velvety texture.
The recipe comes from Maricel Presilla and was printed in Food & Wine. I have changed the technique so much that I’m afraid the author might not be happy with the credit. She strains the soup at two different intervals in the recipe before pureeing it in the blender, after which she strains it again. This might not be too cumbersome in her restaurant, Zafra, but I was so frustrated with all this straining that I found myself losing too many of the ingredients and too much time. On my second attempt, I pureed it only after blending and found it to be equally as velvety and lush.
To kick the chowder up a notch, top it off with a dollop of Sassy Corn Salsa. My friend would probably add a serrano chili to his. But mild or spicy, the salsa definitely gives this creamy chowder enough oomph to please anyone.
Peel green (unripe) plantains with a sharp knife.
Grate plantain on the coarse holes of a grater.
To cook onions and other veggies until tender, sweat them by covering the top of the pot with a sheet of wax paper and the lid. This allows the moisture to collect on the paper and self-baste the vegetables. After 10 minutes carefully remove the wax paper. The veggies will be soft and tender.
SHRIMP AND CORN CHOWDER
2 pounds medium shrimp, shelled and deveined
6 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, such a canola
1 large red onion, chopped
1 red bell pepper, chopped
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 cups fresh or thawed frozen corn kernels
2 cups whole milk
4 cups vegetable broth
1 bottle (8 oz.) clam juice
3 canned plum tomatoes, or 3 Italian plum tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1 unripe (green) plantain, peeled and coarsely grated
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Sassy Corn Salsa, for serving (for recipe, click here)
1. In a shallow glass bowl or plastic bag, toss the shrimp with two-thirds of the minced garlic, lime juice and 1 teaspoon salt. Cover or seal and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 3 hours; not longer or the shrimp will cook from the acid.
2. In a large saucepan or Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium high until hot. Add the onion, remaining garlic, bell pepper, turmeric and cumin. Cook for 2 minutes. Sweat the vegetables by covering the top of the pan with a sheet of wax paper and the pan lid. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook for 8 to10 minutes, stirring once, until vegetables are tender.
3. Meanwhile, in a food processor, puree the corn with the milk.
4. When the vegetables are soft, stir in the corn with the milk, broth, clam juice, tomatoes, plantain and cayenne. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium low and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes until soup tastes flavorful.
5. Working in batches, remove half of the vegetables to a blender and puree. Add half the liquid and puree until very smooth. Repeat with remaining vegetables and broth.
To Make Ahead: Soup may be refrigerated up to 2 days or frozen.
6. Return soup to clean saucepan and season with salt and pepper. Heat over moderate heat until hot. Add shrimp with marinade and cook until just opaque, about 2 minutes.
7. Divide among soup bowls and top with a dollop of Sassy Corn Salsa.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
