This simple recipe comes from Jacques Pépin’s cookbook, Essential Pépin. It exemplifies Jacques’ minimum style for maximum taste.
I have been lucky to have worked with Jacques for many years, mostly in my cooking school in Tarzana, CA. While I assisted many talented chefs at my school, Julia Child and James Beard, to name a couple, none were as exacting as Jacques. No one else tasted the pasta water to make sure I had salted it before adding the pasta, or berated me for leaving the oven door open while I sat something down. When I look back, I learned more from him than from anyone else I worked with.
I have been teaching this recipe for so long that I am not sure what is Jacque’s and what I’ve adapted. I always brown chicken with the skin on and then remove it before braising. Browning the skin leaves great drippings in the bottom of the pan (the drippings are called fond in French) which is essential for imparting the utmost flavor in the sauce. The yams or sweet potatoes round out the dish to make it a complete meal.
As with all braised dishes, they improve when made ahead and freeze beautifully. One trick I learned from Jacques is when you freeze a braised dish, put a clean dish towel directly on the meat to keep it from drying out. I’ve since found it easier to use wax paper.
CHICKEN WITH SHALLOTS AND MUSHROOMS
2 tablespoons olive oil
8 chicken pieces on the bone, legs and thighs preferred
1/4 cup chopped onion
4 large shallots (about 6 ounces), sliced (about 11/2 cups)
6 oz. small mushrooms, if large, cut in half or quarters
About 1 pound sweet potatoes or yams (choose the smallest ones possible) peeled and halved lengthwise
or cut into chunks if large
1 cup dry white wine or imported dry vermouth
8 large garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped (2 tablespoons)
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley (for garnish)
1. Heat the oil in a Dutch oven or large, wide saucepan. Add the chicken pieces in batches and sauté over medium-high heat until browned on all sides, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside the chicken aside until cool enough to handle, then remove the skin.
2. Add the onion and cook for 1 minute. Add the shallots, mushrooms, yams or sweet potatoes, wine, garlic, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat, and boil very gently for 20 minutes (or until the chicken is done).
3. Transfer to plates and garnish with the parsley.
To make ahead: Chicken may be refrigerated up to 2 days or frozen. Freeze with a sheet of waxed paper pressed directly on the chicken to keep it from drying out.
Makes 4 servings.
Recipe adapted from Essential Pépin by Jacques Pépin
